Site Selection
a. Water Supply – the site must be accessible to adequate water supply and free from contamination and pollution. Provide each compartment with an individual water inlet and drainage outlet.
b. Soil Characteristics – clay, clay loam, and sandy loam soils are best for fishpond projects. Deposits of organic matter of about 16% are best for fishponds. Avoid sandy, rocky or stony soils because these do not retain water in the pond.
c. Pond Compartments – area of grow-out ponds ranges from 1,000-10,000 sq.m. per compartment, smaller compartments are easier to manage however it requires higher cost for development.
d. Drainage – take into consideration easy drainage to facilitate harvest and proper cleaning of the pond bottom when constructing the pond.
Other factor to consider:
- Choose a flat terrain for easier excavation and leveling.
- Avoid exposure the fishpond to strong winds which generate wave action that destroys the sides of the dikes.
- Construct a diversion canal along the perimeter dike for runoff water during heavy downpour as protection from flood.
Types of Culture System
a. Extensive Culture System – the growth of fish depends on the natural food present in the pond, which is produced through fertilization. No supplemental feeds is given to the fish during the course of the culture period. The recommended stocking density of this kind of culture system is 10,000-20,000 pieces/hectare or 1-2 pcs/sq.m.
b. Semi-Intensive Culture System – the fish depends on the natural food and supplemental feeds. In this system the stocking density is 30,000-50,000 pieces/hectare or 3-5 pieces/sq.m.
c. Intensive Culture System – high stocking density and intensive feeding is required in this type of culture system. Some form of water movement and aeration is necessary to maintain the desired level of dissolved oxygen (DO) in the pond. Water quality monitoring is very important in this system to avoid water pollution that may affect the fish. In fishpond, the stocking density is more than 50,000 pieces/hectare or more than 5 pcs/sq.m.
Fishpond Management
a. Pond Preparation – the following steps are necessary specially for old ponds:
- Total draining of fishpond – to eliminate old stocks, predators and unwanted species such as catfish, mudfish, biya, ayungin.
- Pond Poisoning – it is recommended to poison the pond to ensure that all predators and unwanted species are eliminated. If ponds cannot be drained fully, poison is applied by spraying/broadcasting it all over the pond bottom with at least 3-5 cm of water. Recommended poisons are tobacco dust, rotenon (tubli) at 25kg/hectare or a combination of lime and 21-0-0 (5:1), at rate of 3g/liter. Use of chemical pesticides is not advised as it will have residual effect on the pond and will destroy soil quality.
- Pond Washing – is done to eliminate the effect of poison be letting filtered water come in and out of the pond.
- Leveling/Harrowing of Pond Bottom – the bottom of the pond is leveled to remove excess mud and dirt. It also facilitates harvesting especially during seining.
- Sun drying of Pond Bottom – for old ponds, it is recommended to expose the pond bottom to sunlight and allow the soil to crack. Toxic gases evaporate and eliminates faster in a sun dried pond bottom.
- Application of Lime – if the pond becomes acidic, application of lime is recommended. The recommended rate is 100g/sq.m. or 1,000kg/ha. Soil samples can be submitted to the BSWM for analysis.
- Screening of Water Inlet and Outlet – before filling – in of water, fine mesh screen is installed in the water inlet to avoid entrance of unwanted species and at the water outlet to prevent escape of fish after stocking.
- Filling-in of Water – pond is ready to be filled-up with water to the favorable depth of 1-2 meters after screen is installed in the water inlets and outlets.
- Basal Fertilization – growth of natural food (plankton) in the pond is produced throudh basal fertilization. Organic fertilizer (chicken manure) is applied through broadcast method all over the pond at a rate of 1,000-2,000 kg/ha. In combination to chicken manure, inorganic fertilizer, 16-20-0 (ammonium phosphate) is also applied at the rate of 100-200 kg/ha by hanging or platform method. This recommended rate may be increased or reduced depending on the amount of natural food is already present in the pond. Basal fertilization should be done one week before stocking. Presence of natural food can be determined through change in color of water into green or yellow green. Over-fertilization should be avoided as it will cause plankton bloom which could result to oxygen depletion. Ammonium phosphate will do if chicken manure is not available.
b. Transport of Fingerlings – 20 x 30 inches x 0.003 gauge plastic bag is the most common container for fingerlings transport today. Below is the recommended quality of fingerlings per bag:
Size = Quantity
- Fry (0.01g ABW) = 2,000-3,000 pcs/bag
- Size 24 = 2,000 pcs/bag
- Size 22 = 1,000 pcs/bag
- Size 17 = 500 pcs/bag
- Size 14 = 300 pcs/bag
Reduce quantity for trips more than 6 hours. It is also advised to place cracked ice on top of plastic container if temperature exceeds 30°C. Buy or acquire fingerlings from reputable sources.
Stocking of Fingerlings
a. Acclimatization is done to avoid thermals shock that will cause mortalities on the fingerlings. This is done by letting the plastic container float in the pond for 10-20 minutes before releasing the fingerlings.
b. Stocking is usually done early in the morning or late in the afternoon to reduce stress on the stocks. Make sure that fingerlings are acclimatized first before releasing it into the pond.
Pond Care and Maintenance
a. Weed control – growth of weeds such as kangkong and water lily in ponds affects the photosynthetic activity, thereby, reducing production of natural food. Excessive fertilization during pond preparation enhances the growth of aquatic weeds. Some fishpond operators are using grass carp as a means of biological control for weeds.
b. Water management – some important water parameters to be monitored:
- Water level/depth – the water should be maintained at 1.2-2.0 meters. For semi-intensive culture management it is advisable to freshen water during the earlier months and change water (30% only) twice a month on the 3rd month and weekly on the last month. Water freshing should be made immediately if problems are observe on the tilapia stocks.
- Dissolved oxygen (DO) – low DO level would result to poor growth, disease outbreaks or mortality. Ideal DO level is 5 ppm. This can be maintained by avoiding excessive feeding and stocking.
- pH – indicates the hydrogen ion concentration, which determines the acidity or alkalinity of the water. At pH 6.5 to 9.0 fish thrives well and grows fast, below or above this range results to poor growth or mortality. pH level can be determined through laboratory analysis at BFAR.
- Temperature – the optimum water temperature favorable to growth of tilapia is 29°C – 31°C. The cold tolerant tilapia however can thrive in temperature as low as 15°C.
- Salinity – freshwater tilapia can tolerate salinity up to 5 parts per thousand (ppt), beyond this amount is not desirable. Saline tolerant tilapia can tolerate salinity as high as 15 ppt to 25 ppt, this brees is usually cultured at brackishwater areas.
- Turbidity – the presence of suspended solids in the water contributes to the turbidity of water. These suspended solids include sediment particles, silt and organic matters (such as detritus, fecal materials and phytoplanktons). Turbidity can either be harmful or beneficial in tilapia culture. If water turbidity is due to the presence of planktonic organisms (water is green in color), it is beneficial since it serves as food for tilapia and thus enhances growth. But if it is due to suspended silt or other solids, it would only suffocate the fish and will eventually result to mortality of stocks. The ideal level of turbidity is 1,300 mg/l or 25-35 cm visibility using secchi disc, below and above this level is a condition unfavorable for tilapia.
- Total ammonia – the un-ionized ammonia is high toxicx to fish. The safe level of un-ionized ammonia is between 0.02 – 0.05 mg/l. Presence of too much ammonia in the pond water exhibits a pungent odor. High ammonia level can be avoided by avoiding overfeeding.
Feeds and Feeding
a. Feeding Methods:
- Hand feeding (sabog) – this is done to have same size of fish
- Use of feeding bags – feeds are placed in B-nets (32mm mesh size) which are called feeding bags. The bags are tied in poles and they are suspended in pond water surface. Fish obtain feeds in the suspended bags by picking or suction.
b. Determining Average Body Weight (ABW), Daily Feed Ration (DFR) and Feed Convertion Ratio (FCR)
- ABW (g) = total weight of fish randomly sampled / # of fish sampled
- DFR is the amount of feeds given daily = ABW * total number of stocks * feeding rate * survival rate
- TFR is the total amount of feeds given for the whole culture period = DFR * feeding duration
- FCR = amount of feeds given during the culture period / weight gain of fish (kgs)
Ex: Compution of daily feed ration (DFR) for 1,000 pcs fingerlings.
1] ABW = 1,000 g / 20 pcs = 50 g
2] DFR = 50 g * 1,000 pcs * 5% * 95% = 2,375 g or 2.375 kilos feeds

Note: The closer the FCR to 1.0, the better is the fish feed. Good feeds have an FCR ranging from 1 to 1.5 (*semi-intensive culture system)
It is also recommended to apply fertilizer / chicken manure at the rate of 2,000 kg/ha/month for chicken manure and 100 kg/ha/month for 16-20-0 for the production of natural food for the fish.
Fish sampling should be conducted every month to monitor growth of the stocks.
Harvesting
- Selective harvesting – it is usually dine in undrainable ponds using gill nets, cast nets and seine nets.
- Total harvesting – ponds are totally drained and fish are confined in the catch basin where the fish are caught by seine nets.
Do not feed the fish 24 hours before harvesting or transporting!
Record Keeping
Among the important data to be recorded are daily pond activities, operating cost which includes pond inputs, quantity and cost (fertilizer, fingerlings, pesticides, etc.) production data, stocking, recovery and daily water parameters, AWB. Causes of failure and success can be traced from the records.
Download Growing Tilapia in 1 Hectare Fishpond
source: www.trc.dost.gov.ph, photo from www.fishchannel.com










It’s actually a great and helpful piece of information. I’m glad that you shared this helpful info with us.
Please stay us up to date like this. Thanks for sharing.
sir im planning to start my tilapia fishpond can you help me if what are the feedings procedures at kng ilang months ang itatagal bago mag harvest? thanks
[...] Proper site selection and pond preparation must be followed, likewise proper pond care and maintenance must be observed in any fishpond venture (for detailed information, read Tilapia Growout in Ponds). [...]
I am interested in the tilapia grow out business…my husband and I decided to venture in this kind of business for our retirement. We will be (in a way) renting a “butas/hukay”, as what they call it in Batangas, somewhere in Taal, Batangas. I would really need help/info about this, since we don’t know anything about it at this time..We would want to know the cost, mortality rate, and procedures of this business…We want to know if this is feasible….We are willing and ready to learn. Presently, we are doing a feasibility study on this. We hope to start the business before the year ends. Any information about this project would really be appreciated. You may email me at ageronimo23@hotmail.com…..thank you and God bless….
@Aileen Geronimo, here’s the article compilation of tilapia raising:
http://www.mixph.com/2010/04/tilapia-raising-business-guide.html
hello sir Jose Mari,
Im presently here in China and i see many tanks which are foldable and vary in sizes…im not new in tilapia farming…i have a 3 grow out ponds in tarlac but i stop tilapia farming when i work abroad…im planning to go back to this business again but this time i will try tanks…i want to know which is better?circular or rectangular? what is the stocking density?what is the best size?i only have 500sq. meters na lot na balak ko paglagyan nito…what other equipments i need?para akong babalik sa pagiging beginner matagal na ako hindi nakahawak ng isda…8 years na you can send your advise to my email merkz98@yahoo.com
Hi Mr. Ram:
There is no difference iin terms of performance between a rectangular or a circular tank. A rectangular tank costs less to construct because theey can share walls. They also dont waste land space.
depending on the efficiency of your system, you can stock as much as 180 pcs of tilapiaq per cu. m.
You will need a water source, a water supply system, an aerator system and a water recirculating system. In my opinion, thee ideal size is anywhere from 60 to 200 sq.m. Water depth shld at least be 1.0m.
Jom
any information about this matter please send ..brj_alex@yahoo.com or alex.borja@nexc.com…it may big help for us.
thanks so much for the advice Jose Mari,,,,,and now i have also a problem for hauling live tilapia…..it takes 6 to 8 hrs ang travel time by land..mostly ang dami ng namamatay na tilapia sa hauling tank…any infrmartion to solve this problem?…..first timer lang ako sa ganitong business e…nasa remote area somewhere in bicol ans area kasi…marami kasi akong matutulungan na farmers pag nadala ko sa market ang tilapia in good condition pa…..hope you feed me some idea for this matter…
Hi Mr. Alex:
Tilapia should be “conditioned” first before they are transported live. To “condition” them, they should not be fed for at least 12-24 hours prior to transport (24 hrs for long travel). The contents of their guts should be emptied so that they will not defecate in the transport water. Pollution of the water is the major cause of mortality during transport.
Before transport, the harvested tilapia are placed in a tank with running water. This should prepare them to a crowding condition during transport. Using a submersible pump, the tank is provided with a vigorous water shower to saturate the dissolved oxygen level in the water.
During transport, the water temperature is reduced to about 20 C by adding ice. This will decrease the metabolism of the fish, to make them less excited and consume less oxygen.
Good luck
hi sir norman,
i just want to ask you about what are the principles and procedures of fish culture? I really need your help because I am a educ student taking with my HE class and this is my project. I am hoping you can help me…
sir norman,
gud am!
nareceived nyo po ba mga info na email ko yesterday?
sir norman,
thanks! i will gather all the information and email it to you as soon as i can.
we really need help and technical advice for our second stocking.
thanks in advance.
god bless!
gud pm!
nakapag alaga na po kami ng tilapia para sa tilanngit. ang kailangan lang po namin is 30grams each. sa experience po namin mabagal lumaki ang isda umabot po ng 65 days, tapos sa 50,000pcs. na fingerlings 475kilos lang po naharvest namin marami po maliliit. expected po namin 1200kilos. bakit po kaya konti lang naharvest namin.. may namamatay po pero konti lang.. help naman po… give us some advice.. thanks!
Yung pag laki ng tilapia is relative to feeding, stocking density, at minsan din sa temperature at yung fingerling din. It’s hard to give advise kung kulang ng information. You may email me at norman.whit@yahoo.com
we are have constructed some units of plastic tanks, equipped with pumps and filtration system to culture tilapia and other marine fishes, Tank size is 1.2 m x 1.2 m x 1.2 m which can hold 30 to 50 kilos of fish at harvest. Currently on trial are sea-bass, nile tilapia, red tilapia, groupers (lapu-lapu). We will try other fishes such as rabbit fish (danggit and samarals)and other high value species (prawns, lobsters) in the near future. We have contacts with private hatcheries for supply of these fingerlings. These tanks can be placed in yr garage or other smaller areas. These is a new level for urban fish culture. If interested you may reach me at john_aloria@yahoo.com
John,
I have also done aquaponics system using plastic drums to raise fish and vegetables. The waste water from the fishtanks flow into the pipes and into the drums with gravel filters where you can grow different type of vegetables without soil. The filtered water goes back to the fish tanks for re-use using an auto-switch on pumps. Basically it is a recirculating water system that benefits vegetables growing while filtering the waste water from the fish tanks. This is good for a hobby while getting a supply of fresh vegetables right at your home – You may grow tomatoes, onions, pechay, eggplants, etc. although the fish growth is a bit slower due to restriction of space – commercial feed may be given to the fish if you want tot boost the growth. You may incorporate this in your system.
aqua_quest27@hotmail.com
John,
may i know how much is the price of your plastic tank each and where is your location i’m in nueve ecija
Rgrds,
bandiovel
[...] be polycultured with other carp species, tilapia, milkfish, catfish, [...]
any impormation pwedi rin bang feed sa tilapia yung mga trash fish sa wet market,,,sayang kasi …pwedi ba ipakain ito sa tilapia? any answer need asap…email me alex.borja@nexc.com
Dear Mr. Alex:
Pwedeng pwede ipakain ang trash fish sa wet market sa tilapia. Gilingin mo lang para maliit ang particle size, haluan mo ng rice bran at ipakain mo sa tilapia mo.
Ang disadvantage lang ng fresh fish ay madaling dumumi ang tubig mo. Baka kailangan mong magpalit ng tubig ng mas madulas. Kailangan na pakonti-konti lang ang pakain para maubos ito ng isda. Hanggat maaari ay huwag magpasobra para di dumumi agad ang tubig