A. Pattern Preparation
Some stained glass patterns come full sized and some need to be enlarged, but all will need a little preparation.
Make two copies of your pattern and keep the original for future projects. Number the pattern pieces on both copies. Add glass color, streak direction and other helpful reference notes. Cut one copy apart using stained glass pattern shears and use the other for layout and assembly.
Why use pattern shears?
Both copper foil and lead came take up space around your pieces of glass. If you don’t compensate for this now, you’re project will “grow” ending up larger than its original dimensions. This is especially troublesome if your making a piece that will be installed into an opening such as a window or door.
Pattern shears have three blades that automatically remove the right amount of the pattern to allow for the copper foil or lead came. This allows your glass pieces to fit together properly. Because the amount of space taken up by foil and lead differs, pattern shears are made in foil and lead versions. Make sure that you use the right one for your type of construction
Framing and reinforcing so soon?
The best time to consider your framing and reinforcing options is during pattern preparation. Framing varies slightly with each manufacturer. Choose your material and adjust the pattern before you cut it apart.
Now is the time to plan for reinforcement. A general rule of thumb is to reinforce panels over three square feet. Mark you pattern for placement of reinforcing bars or strip to remind you of their location during cutting and construction.
Pattern Preparation Tips
- When cutting curves, stay in the throat of the shears and use short, quick strokes to keep your pattern stock from jamming the shears.
- Rub the single blade of your pattern shears with a candle to keep the thin strips of paper from sticking in between the blades.
- Always use the same side of a ruler when measuring and drawing.
- Make extra copies of your pattern and use colored pencils to try out different color schemes before buying your glass.
- Photo copies can distort images. Check copies for accuracy before cutting.
- Patterns cut from transparency film let you see the details in the glass before cutting. They can also be held on the glass while grinding.
- Contact paper makes a great single use pattern that stands up to grinding.
- Drafting tape is handy for holding pattern pieces in place for placement and tracing onto your glass. It removes easily for pattern storage.
B. Scoring Glass
It’s important to use a quality glass cutter that is comfortable to hold. Try out different handle styles to find the one that’s right for you. Look for a cutter with a carbide steel cutting wheel and axle. These wheels hold their cutting edge longer and produce a cleaner score. Some cutters have an oil feed system. This not only keeps the cutter head lubricated and free rolling, it also deposits a thin line of oil along the score which makes it easier to break.
When to replace your cutter head
A dull or damaged cutter head will turn any project into a nightmare. Occasionally clean out he space where the wheel turns with an old toothbrush. Tiny chips of glass can get wedged in he opening causing the cutter to scratch instead f score the glass. Once the wheel is turning freely, score a piece of mirror which makes the core line easier to see. A damaged wheel will eave a dot-dash pattern instead of a smooth, even line.
If you suddenly can’t run a simple score and you’ve done the above, your wheel is probably dull and it’s time to replace the head.
How to get a good score
There are several preliminary steps to making a good score. use a good, sharp cutter. A dull or damaged wheel will not score properly. Make sure you lubricate the wheel so it rolls freely. Clean the glass of debris and surface film. Always score on the smoothest side of the glass
To score:
Start at an edge placing the cutter perpendicular to the glass. Apply consistent, light to medium pressure while pushing the cutter across the glass. A good score appears as a continuous scratch on the surface. A furrow of slivers indicates too much pressure. Break each score as you make it.
To see if you over-score (use too much pressure):
Make a series of scores on a piece of scrap glass about 1/2″ apart, applying less pressure each time. When you think you haven’t pushed hard enough, make 5 more scores using less pressure each time. Use your running pliers to break out the scores in the same order that you made them.
Discard any pieces that didn’t follow the score and any that wouldn’t break. (If they all followed the score, do some more and lighten up!) Look at the edge of the pieces. A good score has a smooth cut edge. An over-scored piece has a rough edge with pits. Practice until you consistently get a clean edged break.
How to use a Strip/Circle Cutter
To cut strips: 
Nail a 1″ x 2″ wood strip to your work surface. Insert the measuring bar through the strip cutter base, adjust the wheel turret for size and tighten in place. Dab the cutting wheel in cutting oil. Put the glass edge against the wood strip. Use one hand to apply downward pressure to the cutting wheel and the other to guide the strip base along the wood edge as you pull the cutter across the glass.
To cut circles: 
Insert the measuring bar into the tripod base and adjust the wheel turret for circle size, remember that this is the radius of the circle! Dab the cutting wheel in cutting oil. Hold the base in the center of the glass using firm, downward pressure with your left hand. Position the turret at about “7 o’clock” and hold with your right hand. At this point your right hand will be crossed over your left. Apply downward pressure and push the turret clockwise around the circle until you come to the point where you started.
To break out the circle, 
turn the glass upside down on a firm, flat and slightly padded surface like a section of newspaper. Use your thumb and gentle pressure to start the score and then run it around the circle, always pushing at the point where the score stopped running. Turn the glass back over and using your glass cutter, make several scores starting at the edge of the circle and going outward to the glass edge in a pinwheel fashion. Make sure that your scores don’t cross into the circle. Use running pliers to break out these scores and release the circle.
Glass Scoring Tips
- Always use your cutter with the head screw facing up or forward for the best cutting angle.
- Before starting a score, position the glass so that you can comfortable complete the whole score.
- Always score glass on the smoothest side. This is not always the ‘front’ of the glass. Highly textured glass, like ripple or granite, is scored on the back side. (Don’t forget to turn your pattern piece over!)
- If you get stuck in a bump or pit, gently ease your cutter out and continue scoring.
- At the end of a score, lift your cutter up instead of rolling it off the glass. This prevents damage to the cutter head and the glass.
- It is easier to follow your pattern line by pushing your cutter instead of pulling it. When scoring along a ruler or bar, it is easier to ride the cutter head along the edge if you pull instead of push.
- Over-tightening the oil cap on your cutter can crack the barrel of your cutter.
- Use a bench brush to keep your work area free of small slivers and cutting debris that can scratch your glass or yourself.
- Make sure one wheel of your strip cutter is centered to the bottom on the turret head. A spot of red nail polish on each used wheel tells you when it’s time to replace the entire turret.
C. Breaking Glass
Choosing the correct pliers: Each type of pliers has a different purpose and is used in different situations.
Breaker/Grozier Pliers are dual purpose pliers with a flat jaw and a curved jaw. Both jaws are serrated for removing flares and tiny points of glass To break out a score, hold the glass firmly near the score line with the pliers, flat jaw up. Use your right hand to hold the other half of the glass near the score line opposite the pliers jaws. Use a downward, rotating motion to break the score.
To groze, hold the piers curved side up and use a rolling motion to gently scrape the glass edge against the serrated teeth. Use the tips in a chewing motion to remove small sections of glass or nibble out deep inside curves.
Breaking Pliers have a smooth, flat jaw used for breaking long, thin pieces of glass. They allow you to reach into a piece of glass and hold it firmly at the score line without chipping the edge of the glass.
To use, firmly hold the glass close to one side of the score line with the pliers and close to the opposite side of the score line with your other hand. Use a downward, rotating motion with your hands to separate the pieces of glass. If you don’t get a nice clean break of the glass is chipping and shattering, you may be squeezing the pliers too hard.
Running Pliers let you break difficult scores with ease. The curved jaw applies equal pressure to both sides of the score line causing the score to ‘run’. [insert photo] There is an adjustment screw on some types for adjusting to the glass thickness and amount of force needed to run the score. more pressure runs a score more quickly, less pressure more slowly. Curves are easily broken out by running the score slowly from one end to about half way and then from the other end until the scores meet.
To use, place the jaws (with the center indicator line facing up) squarely onto the glass with the score line centered in the jaws. Turn the adjustment screw until it just touches the bottom handle, then back if off 1/2 a turn. Squeeze the handles gently until the score runs. You must have the jaws fully on the glass for the pliers to work properly.
Breaking Tips
- Always wear proper eye protection when breaking glass.
- Prevent tools from rusting by storing them away from any corrosive chemicals. Wash and dry your tools if they come in contact with flux or patina.
- Holding and bending is the correct action when using breaking or breaker/grozier pliers.
- Squeezing too hard causes the glass to chip and shatter.
- Instead of holding the glass in your hand when using breaking pliers, try holding the glass flat on the table with the score line just off the edge. use your breaking pliers to grasp the piece hanging over the edge and bend the glass down to separate the score. This is most useful for straight cuts.
- You have more control over how your glass breaks when you squeeze gently with your pliers.
- Apply pressure in small, increasing amounts until the score runs or breaks.
- After you run the glass it is sometimes helpful to turn the runners over and repeat the process. This creates opposite pressure and helps the glass break away.
D. Grinding
“Do I need a glass grinder if I’m just starting out?”
- YES A grinder lets you easily create projects that you will be proud of from the start.
- YES Grinding lets you alter the shape of your glass. You will waste less glass because of inaccurate cuts. Your pieces will fit better and look more professional.
- YES Copper foil adheres better to a ground edge because the adhesive has a rougher surface to grab to.
- YES Specialty bits make jobs like drilling holes, mitering edges and removing glass texture much easier.
Which grinder is right for me?
Consider the following to help you decide which features are the most important to you, now and in the future. Consult with your stained glass retailer before you buy for additional information and advice.
- Size - Grinder are made in two basic sizes, “large” with a 12″ x 11″ work surface and “midsize” with a 10″ x 9″ work surface. consider your bench space and the type of projects you’ll be making. large pieces of glass are easier to work with on a large grinder.
- Power - The more torque (measured in oz.-in. your grinder has, the faster and more efficiently it grinds. More powerful grinders operate larger diameter grinding heads more effectively.
- Accessories/Bits - Additional work surfaces, face shields and upgrade kits are a few of the many useful grinder accessories. There are many different grits, sizes and types of grinding heads. Buy a machine that doesn’t limit future choices and options.
Why is torque important in a grinder?
The most familiar method of rating a motor is horsepower, but horsepower doesn’t necessarily tell you how well a grinder works and is only part of the motor rating equation.
Torque is a measure of how hard the grinding bit turns against the glass. At a constant speed (RPM) the more torque the more grinding power. When everything else is equal, the higher the torque rating, the better the motor.
Grinding Safety
- ALWAYS wear safety glasses when grinding!.
- A face shield is extra protection, but is not a substitute for safety glasses.
- Always use your grinder in a properly rounded outlet. Never remove the rinding plug or try to override it.
Grinding Tips
- Always wear proper eye protection when grinding glass!
- Position the grinder at a comfortable height to work at. Elevating one foot on a foot stool can alleviate back strain during extended grinding sessions.
- Good over head lighting makes it easier to work and helps reduce eye strain.
- Use a backdrop or splash guard around your grinder to help contain over spray.
- Hang a towel below your grinder for drying pieces before putting them on your pattern
- Use a paint pen to mark pattern lines on glass. it’s more likely to stay on while you grind.
- Lay glass flat on the work surface while grinding to prevent angled edges. (Unless you want them!)
“How many bits do I need?”
The best selection of bits for you depends on the type of work you do and your personal taste. Grinder heads (bits) come in a variety of sizes and shapes for different types of grinding or to create certain effects. Pick the ones that will most efficiently do the job at hand.
- Super Fine Grits: for mirror, very soft and delicate glasses where maintaining the smoothness of the edge is critical. Also use when the edge will be left exposed.
- Fine Grit: For soft and delicate glasses with very minimal chipping along the ground edge.
- Standard Grit: For normal grinding of most glass types.
- Speed Grits:For fast removal of material or grinding large surfaces where any chipping will be covered with foil or lead.
- Super Speed Grit: An aggressive grit for extremely fast removal and where the edge won’t be seen or will be retouched with a finer bit.
- A special patented bonding process for extra long wear.
- Two layers of diamond bonded to the core that last more than twice as long as conventional grinder heads.
How to use specialty bits
Lamp Bits: A reversible bit with two different angles sides to grind lamp pieces that fit on a miter. Mitered edges meet better giving a thinner, more professional looking solder seam. Pick the angle that comes closest to the angle between the panels in your lamp. To figure the angle, take the number of panels and divide into 180.
Ripple Bits: Used to thin thick or textured glasses and make them easier to fit into the channels of lead and metal cames or to make pieces easier to foil. It tapers the glass edge by passing it through or under the groove in the bit.
Drilling Heads: Start by holding the glass at an angle to the top of the bit with a sponge held against the bit and the underside of the glass. As you grind, work the glass round the point of contact. It’s important to keep the bit and glass wet. Frequently remove the bit from the hole to wet the hole and remove residue. Just before the bit comes through the glass, decrease grinding pressure to prevent chipping.
How to drill holes
1. It is best to drill under water. Use a cake pan or something similar. Place a piece of cardboard between the glass and the pan to protect the glass and the bit end when you drill through. When using a hand drill, start drilling at and angle to the glass.
2. Once the hole is started, bring the drill to vertical and drill through the glass. Make sure you keep the bit wet. If a white build up forms, add more water. Use less pressure as you come through the back of the glass.
For larger diameter drills, you will probably find it easier to use a drill press.
Bit Tips
- Always wear proper eye protection when grinding glass!
- Store bits in their original packaging to protect the diamond and identify the grit.
- Keep the set screws from worn bits for back up.
- Always secure the bit to the flat side of the motor shaft.
- When changing bits, lubricate the shaft with a petroleum based product to prevent seizing.
- Remove bits if you’re not using the machine for long periods of time.
- Bits frozen onto the shaft can be removed by carefully using a plumbers faucet puller.
- To extend the life of your diamond bits, blades, core drills and discs, use a grinder coolant additive. A couple of capfuls added to the water in the reservoir reduces friction, speeds up the grinding action and adds up to 50% to the life of a grinder head.
source: www.thestorefinder.com, photo from brandonblinkenberg.com
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December 22nd, 2007 at 3:20 pm
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