Guide to Pattern-Making and Tailoring

The fundamentals of dressmaking lie in the relationship between the human body and the fabric itself. The shape of the fabric must conform to the shape of parts of the body it covers. We call this relationship as fit. Fit itself has two aspects: static fit and dynamic fit. A dress should fit to a body that stand still as well as a body in movement. Pattern-makers add additional cloth to a perfectly fit pattern to allow movement in certain pivotal points and to increase the comfort level. The term used for this additional cloth is ease.

As fashion designers put more attention to the styles, pattern-makers focus on the technical aspects of a garment. Fit, ease, and hang become mostly-used terms. The fact that pattern-makers concern with the accuracies of body measurements and basic pattern shapes shows the technical aspects of pattern-making skill. It is unreasonable to expect a good pattern line if the basic pattern from which it is evolved does not have it. It is also hard to get a good basic pattern without correct body measurements.

Basic Pattern-Making

• Basic bodice for women
• Sleeves
  • Draft a pattern for a basic sleeve, alter a basic sleeve into a sleeve for dropped shoulder, make armscye larger/smaller
  • Alter a basic sleeve into a sleeve with gatherings
  • Alter a basic sleeve into a raglan sleeve
  • Corsets – Draft patterns for a basic corset and two corset tops
• Pants
  • Draft patterns for women’s pants
  • Alter patterns of basic pants for different styles of pants (pleated pants, Bermudas, jeans and casual pants without side seam)
  • Draft patterns for men’s pants
  • Draft patterns for babies’ and children’s pants
• Hood – Draft patterns for a hood
• Skirt – Draft patterns for women’s basic skirt
• Children’s jacket – Tailored jacket with collar for children

Illustrative Pattern-Making

• Page 1 – Introduction – Why Hand Draft
• Page 2 – Measuring & Personal Measurement List
• Page 3 – Text Instructions
• Page 4 – Part 1 The Rectangle
• Page 5 – Part 2 Hips and Side Seam
• Page 6 – Part 3 Waist
• Page 7 – Part 4 Hip Curves
• Page 8 – Part 5 Waist Curve
• Page 9 – Part 6 Marking Back Dart
• Page 10 – Part 7 Back Darts
• Page 11 – Part 8 Front Darts
• Page 12 – Part 9 Thicker Waist
• Page 13 – Part 10 Cutting Blocks
• Page 14 – Part 11 Toile
• Page 15 – Part 12 Waistband

For training and seminars, contact:

GlobalPinoy Training
Tel. (632) 9260860 ; Mobile +63204259973
Basic Pattern Making = Php 1,685.00

source: pattern.stringcodes.com, leenas.com, fashion-era.com