Growing Cacao Tree

Care of Seedlings

Light – initial shade intensity is about 80%. Nurseries must be protected from direct sunlight and strong wind. Coconut leaves may be used for the purpose. After the first whorl of leaves has hardened, reduce the shade gradually. Reduce the light to 50% from 6 weeks-8 weeks from germination.

Water – watering must be early mornings and afternoons. Take care not to saturate the rooting medium. Discard poorly developed seedlings. When leaves are pale, it means the plant has nutrient deficiency. Apply weekly: 15 grams urea or 30 grams ammonium sulfate dissolved in one gal of water for 200 seedlings. To protect the seedlings from pests and disease, spray with fungicide or insecticide if necessary. After 4-6 pairs of leaves have come out (6-8 months old) the seedlings are ready for transplanting. Remove shade gradually one month before transplanting to harden the seedlings and prepare them for field conditions.

Land Preparation – If the soil is forest land with a good amount of organic matter on the surface layer, no tillage is necessary. However, if cash crops are to be planted along with cacao, a thorough preparation is necessary. Plow and harrow the land at least 2 times to pulverize the soil well and suppress the growth of weeds.

Roads and Drainage – In rolling lands, base contour lines are first established to serve as guide in the establishment of roads, drains and rows of cacao and shade trees. Lay out main roads and in-plantation roads adequately to facilitate management and minimize operational costs. Main roads may be established horizontal to in-plantation roads and laid out a convenient distance of about 100 meters apart, and in-plantation roads may be set at about 50-75 m apart.

Distance of Planting, Staking and Planting System – Some studies recommend that cacao can be laid in rows 2 meters apart if in open areas, while under coconut trees 2.5 m away from the base. Another study favors close planting followed by thinning, as advantageous as higher yield per unit area is obtained earlier, and farmers have a chance to eliminate or top-work less productive trees. Other studies even recommend 3×3 m or 3×4 m apart.

Staking – Align cacao rows by using thin rope or string as planting guide, wherein distances desired are properly identified with a knot or other marks. As this guide is stretched across the field, pegs are driven though where the markers are set, until the whole area is laid out with pegs or stakes. In sloping land, hedge planting can also be employed. For land less than 15° slope, 3-row hedge with 4 m space between hedges; for land with 15°-30° slope, 2-row hedge with 4 m space between hedges; and one-row hedge for slopes up to 35°.

Temporary shade trees are grown 6-12 months ahead of cacao to provide shade to the seedling at planting time. These may be banana, ipil-ipil, or madre de cacao (kakawate). In spots or points previously staked for shade trees, sticks of madre de cacao are about 1.5 m long, or 3 months old giant ipil-ipil are planted. Where overhead shade is insufficient, 3-5 seeds of rapidly growing temporarily.

Fertilization

1. Apply 20-30 gms ammonium sulfate in a shallow trench around each plant 2-3 months after transplanting.
2. In the first year, apply 200-300 gms per tree the following:
   • ammonium sulfate – 5 parts (or urea: 2.5
   • parts)
   • single superphosphate – 5 parts
   • potassium sulfate – 2 parts
   • magnesium sulfate – 1 part
3. In the second, third and fourth year, increase the fertilizer to 450, 600 and 900 gms per tree, respectively. Divide the recommended quantity in 2 or more equal parts.

Apply the first part at the start of the rainy season and the rest at equal intervals later in the season. If the above fertilizers are not available, complete fertilizer 14-14-15-15 (N-P-K-Mg) will do just as well.

Apply one half of the quantity given above, that is,

• 225 gm per tree for year 2
• 300 gm per tree for year 3
• 450 gm per tree for year 4

Pruning – One year after transplanting, branches come out. The first pruning is done to control the height at which the first branch (sometimes called jorquette) is formed. This first branch must be at least 5 ft, or else, harvesting and maintenance will be greatly hindered, that is, spraying and harvesting. When 5 or more branches have grown, prune the weak ones leaving only 3 or 4 well-developed branches. Pruning is done with a sharp saw, during dry months (or after harvest). This controls the shape and height of the tree to facilitate work. Surfaces that have cuts must be painted with coal tar or lead paint. Fan branches in a jorquette must also be controlled.

Overcrowding results in ineffective utilization of the sunlight. Leaves of Overcrowded branches become liabilities rather than assets with respect to nutrition. New growths appear at the cut surface after some time. Cut them early unless they are used to replace a dead or unhealthy branch. All suckers (chupons) that may arise after pruning must be removed as early as possible. Avoid heavy pruning. Reduce shade continually at the beginning of the second year until only 1/4 (25%) of its original cover is left at the beginning of the fourth year.

Harvesting – Harvest only mature pods. Pods are ready 170 days from pod setting when red pods turn deep red or yellowish orange, and green pods turn yellow. A hollow sound is produced when pods are tapped as the seeds are separated from the inner walls of the pod. Use a sharp instrument (knife, bolo, scythe or shear) for harvesting. A knife attached to a pole could help in reaching the high branches.

Cut pods as close to the stem as possible, but take care not to hurt the flower cushions, pods and the tree itself. Remove infested pods and separate beans collected from infested pods because these are inferior in quality. Fruits do not mature at the same time. Harvest pods when they are at uniform ripeness, and prevent an exercise number of over ripe pods before the next harvest. Ten days to 3 weeks (10-21 days) intervals are recommended. About four (4) harvest cycles may be made per season.

Pod Breaking – After harvest, the pods are brought to the field for breaking by a wooden mallet. Then the beans are scooped out of the husk and the placenta removed. Collect the beans in a container for fermenting.

Fermentation – The characteristic cocoa flavor and aroma are developed during fermentation. During fermentation, the pulp breaks down with drainage of sweating. With the rise in temperature, pulp sugar is fermented into alcohol. The bean dies and the seed color changes, developing into the nice chocolate flavor.

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